5 Oahu Towns You Should Visit, Besides The Obvious Waikiki
James CaveStaff Writer, Lifestyle, The Huffington Post
If "go to Waikiki" is the extent of your dream Hawaii vacation,
you're not alone. The tourist district on the island of Oahu is the most
popular spot in the state whose main economy is tourism, and 2.2
million people visited the island of Oahu last year.
But this week, visitors were greeted by warning signs telling them not to get into the water. Torrential rain had flooded the city's plumbing system, causing 393,000 gallons of sewage to spill onto Waikiki Beach, 129,ooo of which flowed into the ocean.
It got us thinking that now's a good time to remember there's so much
more than Waikiki that Hawaii can offer visitors -- here are five of
our (other) favorite Oahu neighborhoods.
Kaimuki is an eclectic urban town a walking distance from
Diamond Head Crater and Waikiki near two universities, an embattled
historic theater, network of Koolau mountain trails, and a set of dive
and award-winning bars and restaurants along Waialae Avenue, its main
drag.
We love starting off with a loaded brunch at Lee Ann Wong's Koko Head Cafe, spending the day at nearby Kahala Beach, cooling off with an acai bowl from Jewel or Juice or eating dinner at town, a locavore spot led by Hawaii chef Ed Kenney, before grabbing the mic at Aloha Lounge (arguably the best karaoke experience in Honolulu).
Kakaako is probably the fastest-changing Honolulu neighborhood, quickly moving from its days as an industrial area to a cluster of exclusive condo towers. It was also a finalist as the location for Obama's presidential library.
Boutiques (such as Paiko) and cocktail bars (Bevy)
line several blocks, and urban projects are under construction that
many hope will provide more pedestrian-friendly passageways.
Because developers want more foot traffic, a lot of Honolulu's
recurring arts-focused events are held in Kakaako, from the annual Pow! Wow! Hawaii street art festival to fashion shows, independent film screenings, panel discussions and art shows at Kakaako Agora.
While there's a lot of new growth in Kakaako -- buildings being
razed for new condominiums and such -- downtown Honolulu's historic
Chinatown neighborhood is a great place to support the local economy
with your good money. Not only is it full of incredible shopping (from
Hawaii's best local designers -- Owens & Co., Roberta Oaks, streets of authentic lei stands -- to an unsurpassed farmers and seafood market), there are art galleries and museums (Hawaii State Art Museum, The Arts at Marks Garage, The Manifest), the historic Hawaii Theatre, and First Friday block parties.
For its sheer natural beauty, you'll be hard-pressed to find a
more stunning Oahu neighborhood than Kaneohe, on the other side of the
mountains from Waikiki. Kaneohe Bay has nearly 20 square miles of
turquoise water with offshore islands to explore (Mokolii/Chinaman's Hat), valleys to drool over (Kualoa Ranch), lush gardens for picnicking (Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden) and temples for finding your moment of zen.
Anybody who stays in Waikiki their whole trip is clearly missing out.
Go to Kalihi for the local experience. Alicia's Market is renowned for serving the best poke on the island; Tamashiro Market is equally revered for its selection of fresh-caught fish. And many locals have stories of their first taste of Liliha Bakery's creme puffs and "nuclear" jelly.
The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum is
like Hawaii's museum of natural history. Halls are filled with the
history of Hawaii and its people, from early Polynesian settlers to the
emergence and growth of the Hawaiian culture to modern Hawaii,
post-statehood. There's also a planetarium that hosts occasional
celestial viewings on the lawn at night.
If you want to see this beach in person, you may have to wait two years. (Photo: Thinkstock)
I’ve
been traveling to the Hawaiian Islands since I was a child. There are
eight major islands, and until recently I’d only visited the four most
populated: Maui, Oahu, Kauai, and Hawaii (aka the Big Island). So three
years ago, prompted by my love of the Islands, I started researching how
to visit the other four: Lanai, Molokai, Niihau, and Kahoolawe. By the
end of my deep dive, I’d gravitated toward Kahoolawe, the smallest of
the eight, due to its historical significance.
The
island has a shocking story. It was originally settled by no more than a
couple hundred people, who formed small fishing communities, around the
year 1000 A.D. But wars broke out through the years, and eventually the
already-sparse population became nonexistent. Fast forward to the the
early 1900s: A couple of ranchers rediscovered the land and tried to
convert it into a cattle ranch, but their plan failed and the U.S. Army
gained control of the land (with no remaining inhabitants). Because of
its Army presence, Kahoolawe quickly earned the nickname “Target Island”
— it was used as a training ground and bombing range until 1994. The
land was then transferred back to the state of Hawaii, and restoration
of the island, led by the Kahoolawe Island Reserve Commission, began. To
this day, there aren’t any full-time inhabitants on the entire island.
Not a single one.
An old-school map of Kahoolawe. (Photo: Bettie Levy, courtesy of the Kahoolawe Island Reserve Commission)
Historically
significant as it may be, though, the island of Kahoolawe has one fatal
flaw in terms of tourism: You can’t get to it easily. The only way is
by volunteering through the reserve commission, so I signed up to do so.
But here’s problem number two: There’s now a two-year wait to donate
your services, and only 1,200 people get to go each year. Luckily, I was
chosen as one of them. The fee to volunteer is $150 per person — the
cost of a permit — for a typical four-day trip. Food and lodging are
included in the fee.
To get to Kahoolawe, you travel from Maui on
an LST (World War II naval vessel), and let me tell you, it’s an
experience out of a James Bond movie.
Leaving Maui on an LST (Landing Ship, Tank) to head to Kahoolawe. (Photo: Bettie Levy)
The
trip takes about an hour, and when I first set foot on Kahoolawe’s
pristine sand, my immediate thought was, “Wow, I can’t believe I’m still
in the 50 states.” I could see a small refurbished Army base in the
distance — aka Base Camp — but otherwise, there wasn’t much. There’s
very little vegetation, and it sounds like crashing waves for miles.
Just another boring day on the job. (Photo: Bettie Levy)
Our
first stop: Base Camp, which reminded me a bit of my first sleep-away
camp experience. There were cabins for lodging, a cabin for laundry, a
mess hall for meals, private bathing areas, and benches in the center of
the camp for congregating/talking/making friends. Everything was clean
and comfortable. There were 29 other people in my group — both
volunteers and KIRC employees — and the other volunteers felt like
family from the start. We all wanted to hear what had motivated the
others to visit the island.
An aerial view of Base Camp. (Photo: Bettie Levy)
After
we got settled, the crew gave the volunteers a briefing about the
erosion project we’d be working on for the next four days: putting
plates in the ground to collect soil and rain. We were also told that we
were not, under any circumstances, to venture into any unmarked areas
on the island. Why? There’s still unexploded ordnance — i.e. explosive
weapons that did not explode — on the land.
It
may look barren, but this soil is loaded with plates, which aid in the
development of Kahoolawe’s soil base. (Photo: Bettie Levy)
Following
our briefing, everyone packed into a bunch of ATVs, driven by the KIRC
staff, and went off to tour the island, which is six miles wide and 11
miles long. One of the most special parts of our tour was visiting the
second highest peak on the island, Moaulaiki. It was a clear day, so we
were able to see five of the other Hawaiian islands. Kahoolawe is
bordered by Maui, Lanai, and Molokai, but we were also able to see as
far northwest as Oahu and as far southeast as the Big Island. Moaulaiki
is also home to the Navigator’s Chair, a seat in the ground made of
stones, used as a compass to help ancestors navigate between the
Hawaiian Islands and Tahiti.
Photo: Sitting in the Navigator’s Chair, looking out at five of the other seven Hawaiian islands. (Photo: Bettie Levy)
Once
we arrived back at Base Camp after our ATV tour, I took a moment to
appreciate just how fortunate I was to be among my Kahoolawe
co-volunteers, some of whom are now lifelong friends. And then, for the
next four days while we were working on our soil project, I continued to
do so. What a spiritual, education and restoration-based adventure.
This pin on my map is one I will never forget — and next up on the
agenda? Niihau, of course. I will keep everyone posted.